The Evolution of Milk Consumption: A Historical Perspective

The speaker introduces the topic of the history of milk consumption, highlighting the unique aspect that humans are the only mammal species that consume milk from other mammal species. They mention various animals whose milk is consumed, such as cows, donkeys, goats, horses, sheep, buffaloes, camels, yaks, and reindeer, with some being less known in Mexican culture.

The speaker discusses how humans in different parts of the world have developed an alimentary relationship with mammal animals, showcasing images of various cultures consuming milk from different animals. This highlights the widespread practice of consuming milk from mammals across different regions and cultures.

The presentation is divided into three parts: the origin of the alimentary relationship with mammals, its development in cultures like the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, a brief overview of the Middle Ages and the 19th century, and how milk consumption became part of Mexican culture, adapting and integrating into the diet over time.

The speaker delves into the ancient history of how humans approached consuming milk, dating back 10,000 years to Africa during the Neolithic period. They describe the challenges early humans faced in hunting wild animals for food and the risks involved. The transition to domestication of animals like goats, sheep, cows, yaks, and horses is highlighted, showcasing the evolution of human-animal relationships for milk consumption.

Around 7,000 years ago in the central Asia region, humans domesticated animals like the donkey, camel, and aurochs (primigenios), which is the ancient cow. This domestication allowed for a convenient source of milk for human groups living in the Sahara region.

In regions like Algeria, Libya, and Somalia, evidence of early human-animal relationships through pastoralism and dairy farming can be seen in cave paintings. Humans lived in caves alongside domesticated cows, indicating a close interaction and lack of fear towards these animals.

Archaeological findings from 7,000 years ago in places like Sam Atassi show advanced practices of milking cows. Humans had already developed techniques for milking, as depicted in detailed drawings showing individuals milking cows and storing milk in baskets.

During the Neolithic period, children were depicted consuming milk directly from cow udders, showcasing their ability to digest lactose. As adults, humans lose this ability, becoming lactose intolerant. Adults likely consumed milk mixed with wild wheat and herbs in a porridge-like form.

As humans transitioned from the Neolithic era to the Metal Ages, civilizations like the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans developed various practices for milk consumption. These ancient societies conceptualized and consumed milk in different ways, marking a shift in human-animal relationships and dietary habits.

Egyptians from the Neolithic period had a developed practice of pastoralism and milking. They were one of the first human groups to have lactose tolerance as adults, allowing them to consume milk without discomfort. Egyptian infants and adults consumed milk at different stages of life, with infants being fed milk from women or cows if necessary. Adults used vessels as cups to drink milk, showing their lactose tolerance.

In ancient Egypt, vessels were used for milk consumption, serving as substitutes for breastfeeding when women couldn't provide milk. These vessels were also used in funerary rituals, symbolizing sustenance in the afterlife. Archaeological studies have found traces of dairy fat in these vessels, indicating their significance in Egyptian culture.

The Papyrus of Ebers, dated around 1200 BC, contains medical recipes involving milk. Remedies included consuming bread with milk for diarrhea, a broth of bull marrow with milk for menstrual issues, and a drink of sycamore fruit broth with milk and honey for phlegm. These ancient remedies show the early understanding of the medicinal properties of milk by the Egyptians.

The Greeks also had a significant history of milk consumption. Similar to the Egyptians, they used milk in various remedies, such as consuming dates dissolved in warm milk to relieve phlegm. This practice reflects the ancient knowledge of using milk for medicinal purposes across different cultures.

The Greeks initially consumed milk from cows but later switched to goats and sheep due to the preference for goat and sheep milk, as noted by Aristotle. He mentioned that goat milk was superior to cow milk, which was considered heavy. Additionally, cows produced less milk compared to goats. The Greeks had a diverse Mediterranean diet rich in cereals, fruits, vegetables, seafood, and game meat, reducing their reliance on milk consumption.

Cheese became a significant part of the Greek diet, with references to its consumption found in texts like the Iliad and the Odyssey. Writers such as Euripides and Aristophanes also mentioned the widespread consumption of cheese. Hippocrates, a renowned Greek physician, included cheese in his list of healthy foods. Greek cheese, made from goat milk and mixed with fig juice for sweetness, was particularly favored. Grated cheese was a common topping on meals, and the Greeks enjoyed letting it mature.

Greek farmers preferred making cheese over working with cow milk. They primarily used goat and sheep milk to produce cheese, despite lower cheese yields. Traditional cheese-making methods involved heating the curd and shaping it in baskets, a practice still maintained in Greece. The Greeks valued cheese production, with specific favorites like the 19-piece cheese jar. The process of making cheese was depicted in traditional methods involving curd heating and basket shaping.

Greek infants were fed goat milk, following the Egyptian medical practice of feeding infants milk until the age of two. Intricate feeding vessels resembling teapots were used to feed infants when they could no longer nurse from a mother or wet nurse. This practice of feeding infants goat milk was influenced by Egyptian medical beliefs and continued until the child reached two years of age.

Ancient Egyptians had special vessels for babies to drink milk, while Greeks conducted experiments with various types of milk, including cow, goat, and sheep milk. The Greeks believed in the medicinal properties of milk, with some even dying from milk indigestion due to consuming different types of milk simultaneously.

Greek physicians initially recommended milk for all illnesses, but Hippocrates changed this approach, considering milk as a health protector rather than a medicine. The concept of 'milk therapy' emerged, where patients were advised to exercise, eat well, and occasionally consume milk for overall health.

Romans, influenced by Greek culture, maintained a diverse diet but emphasized milk production to meet the dietary needs of their large empire. Milk was used in Roman cuisine to wash meats and clean snails, showcasing its versatility beyond just consumption.

Romans and Greeks had a strong affinity for cheese. Romans extended their cheese shops throughout the empire and consumed cheese frequently in their meals. They particularly enjoyed a dish with grated cheese, garlic, and onions on bread. Greeks consumed cheeses with figs and made their own cheeses, ranging from soft goat cheeses to hard cow cheeses. They could distinguish between goat and cow cheeses by texture, with goats' cheeses considered soft and cows' cheeses hard.

Romans not only enjoyed cheese but also used milk for medicinal purposes. They learned from Egyptians and Greeks about the health benefits of milk. Romans valued milk for physical well-being and used milk from animals like goats and sheep to feed infants, as depicted in sculptures and historical artifacts showing small feeding bottles.

In Europe, particularly in the northern regions, dairy farming thrived due to a lack of arable land for cereals. The pressure for food led to the development of dairy farming, with a focus on cattle. Northern European tribes excelled in domesticating cows, leading to a robust dairy industry. By the Middle Ages, a bustling trade in butter and cheese emerged at European fairs. While fresh milk consumption was lower compared to the Greeks and Romans, butter and cheese production flourished, becoming highly valued commodities.

European societies placed a high value on butter and cheese production. Many European regions became significant producers of butter, with traditional methods involving churning milk in wooden churns and adding salt for flavor. Butter and cheese were preferred over fresh milk, reflecting a historical belief in the medicinal and therapeutic benefits of dairy products. The focus was on using milk to create butter and cheese, which were staple foods in European diets.

In Europe, there were various methods of making butter, including the Dutch, German, English, and Spanish methods. The Spanish method involved shaking milk in a goat's skin until it formed butter balls known as 'pegas'.

Dogs in shepherd houses were privileged to receive leftover milk, including colostrum milk, while the rest was used for making cheese. Dogs were considered privileged with such food in European shepherd houses.

During the Middle Ages, milk continued to be used medicinally following the practices of the Greeks and Romans. It was believed to have a positive effect on health, and a milk-only therapy was common for persistent or severe illnesses, lasting up to six months.

By the 18th century, milk had become a staple in European diets, commonly used in preparing foods like pudding, a dish made by soaking bread in milk and cooking it. Milk was also used for making bread and butter, with the tradition of consuming bread with butter becoming popular in the 18th century.

During the 19th century, milk consumption steadily increased in England, Holland, Germany, France, and other European countries. The trend of consuming milk grew, as depicted by the presence of milkmaids in the streets of England during the 19th century.

In the 19th century in northern Spain, women carried milk jugs through the streets, shouting about fresh milk. Passersby would buy a glass of milk. This practice reflected the understanding that the human body needed specific foods like fats and proteins for health, leading to the inclusion of milk and meat in diets.

During the Middle Ages, milk and meat were not considered important in diets. However, by the 19th century, scientific advancements and developments in nutrition led to a growing interest in including milk in diets. People believed in the health benefits of consuming milk, a shift influenced by Greek practices of self-medication.

In France, small cups were used for serving milk, similar to shot glasses in Mexico. Portion sizes varied, with no precise measurements. Customers could request the amount of milk they desired, whether in parks, streets, or outside stables.

During the late 18th and 19th centuries, street vendors selling milk from cows faced challenges due to the skittish nature of cows. Accidents occurred as cows startled easily, causing chaos in the streets. Dogs barking or sudden noises could trigger cows to stampede, posing risks to vendors and passersby.

In Mexico, milk consumption was introduced with the arrival of cows brought by the Spanish. Cows, depicted in codices, were considered dangerous due to their horns. The Spanish introduced cows to Mexico, shaping the country's relationship with milk as a dietary staple.

The Spanish conquistadors introduced livestock to the Americas, starting with horses and pigs for war and food. Horses were used for warfare, while pigs were valued for their easy feeding and ability to provide food for many soldiers. Subsequently, other animals like donkeys, sheep, goats, and cows were brought over, with cows being considered maintenance animals to sustain the conquered groups.

Cattle breeds in Mexico, known as 'criollas,' possibly originated from the Canary Islands. These cows produced little milk, primarily consumed by the Spanish. Indigenous people and Africans did not consume milk due to lactose intolerance, making it dangerous for Mexican children to drink cow or goat milk during the colonial period.

During the colonial era, milk consumption was limited to the Spanish population, who viewed it as a maintenance food for health. The Ayuntamiento granted permission for a small group of Spanish individuals to sell milk from cows, along with butter and various types of cheese. The production and consumption of milk were minimal due to its exclusivity to the Spanish and criollos.

Spanish and criollos mixed milk with various foods, such as inventing chocolate with milk, creating a delicious blend of the sweet milk and bitter chocolate. Additionally, in the late 18th century, women in convents and households prepared a beverage known as 'ponche de huevo,' a mix of cow's milk, egg yolks, and sugarcane alcohol, consumed during cold seasons like winter.

Milk was consumed in colonial desserts, particularly in small quantities. Recipes called for a 'sprinkle of milk,' indicating minimal usage compared to European practices. Milk was also measured in cups or small containers, highlighting the scarcity and exclusivity of milk consumption during the colonial period.

In the late 18th century, infant feeding practices in Mexico discouraged the use of artificial feeding methods like cow's milk, as it was known to be detrimental to children's health. Instead, mothers were encouraged to breastfeed or find a wet nurse. The term 'artificial feeding' referred to feeding children cow's, sheep's, or goat's milk, which was considered a death sentence for American children.

Baby bottles were not commonly used until the 19th century, even in Mexico. Initially made of glass, they started to gain popularity in Europe as well. The absence of baby bottles contributed to the promotion of breastfeeding and the avoidance of artificial feeding methods.

During the late 18th century Bourbon Reforms in Mexico City, regulations were imposed to control the quality of milk sold in the city. Complaints about spoiled or adulterated milk led to the permission for cows to be brought into the city for milk production. This led to a significant increase in the number of cows in the city, causing issues with overcrowding.

The population growth of criollos and mestizos in colonial Mexico led to a rise in milk consumption, particularly among these groups. The tolerance and preference for cow's milk among criollos and mestizos contrasted with the Spanish population. By the late 18th century, there were around 3,000 cows in Mexico City to meet the demand for milk.

The unrestricted presence of cows in Mexico City led to overpopulation issues, with cows found not only in plazas and parks but also in streets, alleys, and even households. The excessive number of cows caused public discontent, with complaints about the city turning into a 'grand stable.' This situation persisted until 1903 when a ban was imposed on cows in the city.

Haciendas and ranches in Mexico became significant producers of milk, with properties like Hacienda Clavería and Hacienda de Cuapa specializing in dairy production. Areas like Mixcoac and Popotla housed numerous ranches and stables that contributed to the growing dairy industry. The increase in dairy production reflected the rising demand for milk in Mexico.

In 1903, due to concerns about cows being a source of pollution, they were moved outside the city, leading to the establishment of cow farms and stables. This decision was influenced by the perceived contamination caused by cow odors and excrement.

Historical images provide a rare glimpse into the milk selling practices in various countries like Germany, France, and Mexico. These images depict scenes of people fetching water from a fountain, purchasing milk from cows, and engaging in milk trade activities.

The presence of over 20 cows in the area indicates that multiple owners brought their cows for milking. This suggests a thriving milk production industry with around 4 to 5 owners supplying milk to the local population.

Individuals, including the economically disadvantaged, would buy milk in containers and sell it on the streets to passersby. This practice of selling milk in the streets was common, with people believing that consuming milk in the morning was beneficial for health.

During the 19th century, milk consumption increased globally, with milk becoming a significant part of the food pyramid by the mid-20th century. The shift towards milk as a staple food item was evident in the menus of cafes, where milk was served alongside other beverages like pulque and coffee.

Cafe menus from the mid-19th century featured milk as a prominent beverage choice, alongside pulque and coffee. The availability of 'pure milk' in cafes highlighted the importance of ensuring the quality and purity of milk amidst concerns of adulteration with substances like water or even dog brains.

In Mexico, there were rumors that milk was adulterated with dog brains, but scientific studies in the laboratory never found any evidence of this. Emphasizing the sale of pure milk was crucial to assure consumers that it was not adulterated.

In the Cafe Cantante around 1869, patrons could enjoy coffee with milk, chocolate, ice cream, gelatin, or a glass of wine between acts. This marked the importance of coffee with milk and milk-based beverages in social settings.

From colonial times to the 19th century, the relationship with milk in Mexico evolved through cultural mixing. Initially, milk was mixed with pre-Hispanic chocolate, then with coffee introduced by the French, and later the middle class and elites created atole de leche by mixing corn atole with milk, becoming a popular dish at gatherings.

In the mid-19th century, the middle class and elites in Mexico combined corn atole with milk to create atole de leche, a beloved dish served at every gathering. It became a staple breakfast with atole de leche and boiled tamales, enjoyed by many Mexicans.

Throughout history, milk transitioned from a survival necessity in the Neolithic era to a symbol of health in medieval times. In New Spain, milk was considered a healthy food, and later, science elevated its importance in nutrition. The cultural mixing of milk with beverages like coffee and chocolate continued in France and Spain, influencing Mexican preferences for milk-based drinks like atolito.