The Evolution of the Textile Industry: A Shift Towards Sustainability

The textile industry, one of the most important globally, has undergone significant transformation in recent decades. It is highly globalized, leading to increased production due to a significant drop in prices, resulting in higher consumption and less use of each garment.

According to European Union data, individuals consume approximately 26 kilograms of clothing per year and discard 11 kilograms. Recycling rates are low, with 87% of discarded clothing ending up incinerated or in landfills in Eastern Europe, Asia, or Africa.

The environmental impact of textile production begins early in the process and affects various stages of the production chain. Textile production, particularly through dyes and finishes, accounts for 20% of global water pollution, with approximately 2,700 liters of water needed to produce a single cotton t-shirt.

The fashion industry is estimated to be responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, surpassing international flights and maritime transport combined. This highlights the significant environmental impact of the fashion sector.

There is a gradual shift towards a more realistic and environmentally respectful fashion industry. Legal pressure is increasing for a circular economy, promoting textiles that are durable, repairable, and recyclable.

While fast fashion has lowered prices for consumers, its environmental cost is substantial, especially in countries where garments are manufactured and disposed of. The impact on the environment is immense, affecting both production and waste management.

In Spain, approximately one million tons of textile waste end up in landfills each year. Globally, an estimated 62 million tons of clothing are produced annually, with projections indicating a worrisome increase to around 102 million tons by 2030.

The production of textiles involves significant energy, water, and material resources, such as cotton and petroleum. The environmental impact, including the release of microfibers into oceans, is substantial and challenging to quantify.

The textile industry is a major contributor to pollution, ranking fourth in pollution levels and fifth in greenhouse gas emissions globally. Both synthetic and natural fibers have significant environmental impacts, with synthetic fibers relying on petroleum and natural gas, leading to emissions of greenhouse gases and microplastic pollution. Cotton, a natural fiber, also has environmental consequences due to land use, water consumption, and pesticide contamination.

The fashion industry's impact, as highlighted by Gema, extends beyond the aesthetics of clothing to significant environmental consequences like water pollution, greenhouse gas emissions, resource exploitation, and waste generation. Importantly, 80% of these impacts occur in developing countries, where production takes place and where discarded clothing, often labeled as second-hand, leads to high levels of waste that may end up incinerated or dumped in landfills, affecting both the environment and society.

Apart from environmental concerns, the fast fashion industry's emphasis on quantity over quality results in garments with reduced durability, leading to decreased reusability. This trend not only affects local textile industries negatively but also strains local economies, with some countries even restricting the import of second-hand clothing to protect their local markets. Consumers play a crucial role in addressing these issues through responsible consumption practices and understanding the shared responsibility in promoting sustainable fashion choices.

Young consumers, often labeled as having a shopping addiction, are increasingly engaging in second-hand shopping. While buying second-hand items can reduce waste, it is essential to consider the environmental impact of transportation and logistics involved in online shopping. Educating youth on sustainable consumption practices and fostering a sense of shared responsibility in promoting eco-friendly behaviors is crucial in addressing the challenges posed by fast fashion and its environmental consequences.

The discussion revolves around the concept of corporate responsibility and the environmental impact of companies. It emphasizes the importance of companies paying fair wages to workers globally and being environmentally conscious in their production processes to avoid pollution of rivers and oceans. The speaker highlights the interconnectedness of the world and the need for a shared responsibility among all stakeholders.

Moda Rey, a cooperative project of Caritas Espanola, focuses on creating job opportunities by managing textile projects from 45 diocesan Caritas across Spain. They operate nearly 7,500 clothing collection containers nationwide. The project aims to provide employment for vulnerable groups and repurpose donated clothing to prevent exploitation by criminal networks. Moda Rey's sustainable practices include utilizing red containers for collection and operating 130 stores in Spain, showing significant growth since the start of the pandemic in March 2020.

Nueva Red, a network of social enterprises, focuses on reusing clothing and creating job opportunities. The network includes around 20 corners in hypermarkets, emphasizing reutilization to reduce environmental impact and provide employment. The enterprises aim to help individuals in need of job skills transition to mainstream employment. Nueva Red operates as a non-profit, reinvesting any surplus into expanding productive activities and job creation, as well as supporting marginalized communities. Currently, Nueva Red has nearly 1,300 jobs in Spain, with over 60% held by women and more than 55% by individuals at risk of exclusion.

Nueva Red collects over 42-43 million kilograms of used clothing annually, demonstrating a strong commitment to environmental sustainability. The network established advanced treatment plants for clothing preparation, recycling, and reuse a decade ago, which remain among the most sophisticated in Spain and Southern Europe. These facilities process clothing for classification into reusable items, recyclable materials, or contaminated textiles for energy recovery to generate electricity.

The speaker highlights the need to address overconsumption and waste management in the fashion industry. Efforts to recycle and reduce waste are crucial, but the root issue lies in reducing consumption. The environmental impact extends beyond production to usage and recycling processes. Exporting waste to less developed countries can exacerbate environmental issues, as these nations may lack the infrastructure for proper waste management, leading to increased pollution globally.

The European Union has been strict in controlling microplastics in cosmetics, with estimates showing around half a million tons of microplastics entering the seas, primarily from textile waste. This amount is significantly lower than what comes from cosmetics. Despite this, the EU has already taken steps to ban microplastics in cosmetics, showing a more lenient approach towards the textile industry.

Hilaturas Ferrer, a company with a 75-year history, specializes in recycling textile waste and transforming it into cotton fiber. This recycled fiber is then combined with other support fibers to create new threads used in various products. The company also recycles garment production waste, contributing to a circular economy. Additionally, they have shifted to using recycled polyester from plastic bottles, leading to significant environmental savings.

Hilaturas Ferrer primarily sources textile waste from organizations like Caritas in Spain, as well as similar organizations in Europe, particularly in countries like the Netherlands and Germany. The recycled fibers produced by Hilaturas Ferrer are sold globally, with clients on all continents, and are used in a wide range of products, including clothing, home textiles, and technical textiles, maintaining the same quality as virgin cotton threads.

Companies like Iraturas CR work with mid to high-priced brands, ensuring product quality. Sustainability efforts are evident in labeling, with many brands highlighting sustainability on labels. There are regulations in place to ensure clear and transparent messaging to consumers, emphasizing the importance of transparency in the industry.

Professionals in the fashion industry, like Paqui Ferrer, note a shift towards sustainability post-pandemic. Companies are increasingly using recycled materials, promoting repair services, and even offering clothing rental options. While there is progress, challenges remain with fast fashion chains producing a high volume of new products daily, fueling consumerism.

Consumers are embracing second-hand clothing and supporting startups offering rental and repair services. The industry is beginning to understand the need for change, but challenges persist with fast fashion's rapid production cycles and consumer demand. There is a growing awareness of the need to rethink clothing production and focus on regenerative fashion using natural fibers like Merino wool.

While initiatives promoting textile recycling are commendable, only 1% of textiles are currently recycled. Relying solely on recycling as a solution is insufficient, as it presents challenges. Educating consumers on the unsustainability of current practices is crucial to drive meaningful change in the industry.

The speaker discusses the need for sustainable fashion production, emphasizing the importance of reducing production levels to those of the year 2000. They highlight the necessity for clothing to be more durable, allowing for longer use by consumers. The goal is for consumers to buy less but of higher quality, ensuring that clothing is used until it is no longer wearable to reduce waste.

The speaker emphasizes the crucial role of laws and governments in driving sustainability efforts. They mention the example of how laws banning plastic bags initially seemed impossible but eventually became accepted. The speaker believes that legal measures are essential to enforce sustainable practices and drive global change.

The speaker expresses support for regulations aligned with the 17 Sustainable Development Goals of the 2030 Agenda. They mention a new law prohibiting the incineration of excess clothing, a common practice in fast fashion. The speaker believes that regulations focused on sustainability goals are necessary for societal and environmental well-being.

The speaker discusses the concept of producer responsibility, where product manufacturers are accountable for managing the waste generated by their products. They suggest that incorporating environmental costs into production can lead to more durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products. This approach offers hope for positive change in the industry.

The speaker advocates for a balanced perspective on environmental issues, urging realism over catastrophism. They acknowledge the textile industry's impact on the environment and stress the importance of addressing the situation realistically. While textiles are a significant contributor to environmental challenges, the speaker notes that there are other lesser-known industries with similar impacts.

The speaker briefly mentions a new pension law that allows individuals to continue working if they choose. They explain that one option incentivizes individuals with a 4% annual increase in pension for each year worked, leading to a higher total annual pension amount over time.